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Ghost image showing how the fender washers will clamp the fender flange.
Finished mounting and will run beaded fender welting around outside to dress it up before tightening.
November 8th 2003 - A template was used for the plywood hatch ribs. Pairs will be glued together for each side. When the template is moved in to cut next rib it rough's in the backside of the previous one as it is cut off.
November 9th 2003 - Detail of how the top is locked into the side ribs with glue and screws.
November 9th 2003 - Frame with 1/8 board that will be glued, nailed & screwed into place.
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November 8th 2003 - Clamping hatch frame in place prior to attaching the hardboard. 1/2 clearance was divided evenly on each side. Note: The bottom bulkhead isn't installed allowing access to remove the clamps when finished.
November 9th 2003 - Clamped in place on the top prior to gluing on hardboard.
November 9th 2003 - Temporarly removed floor mounting bolt and used hole to clamp bottom of hatch in place prior to skinning with hard board. Note: The bottom bulkhead isn't installed yet which will give access to remove clamps once the skin is installed.
With hatch clamped in position 1/8 hardboard was glued and tacked with a brad nailer. At the bottom edge it was screwed to the stringer. After skinning with aluminum the top side will have the hinge mounted on top.
Alright!!! It's starting to look like a real teardrop, not much unlike the one my father bought in the late 1940's. It also served as an extra bedroom which was mine for a few years which was more fun than sleeping in the house. California weather is made for year round teardroping.
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January 18th 2004 - Installed these old style hatch props and they have only 9 travel. Mounting was critical as they had zero clearance (inset) when closed.
A piece of poplar was glued and screwed onto the outside rib to have something solid to mount the prop. After fitting it was taken apart to insulate & skin the inside of the hatch.
Details of the waterproof zero/offset hurricane galley hinge. The seal is 7/16 wide extreme weather seal with a hollow core. The aluminum moulding around the galley is the same as the side door jambs and called Counter top edge.
Another view of the hinge and the ribbed weather stripping to seal out water. All of the aluminum trim on trailer was installed twice. First to fit then removed and the holes and underside of moulding filled with Silicon sealer before re-installed. Excess sealer is easily cleaned off after it sets.
Be sure to have your hurricane hinge before you finish cut your profile. It's no fun to have to do it again after the walls are up.
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The cut-out for the windows were done with router and template. Aluminum was done at the same time. Trim where the sides meet the roof is called Regular edge moulding and bends easily. Was purchased at a local RV repair shop and comes in 16' lengths. It can also be ordered from: http://www.teardroptrailers.net/index.html
December 28th 2003 - The doors were a snap. They were cut out with the router at the same time as the profile and just needed a little cleaning up before installing aluminum and hardware. T-moulding, hinge and window hold skin in place. Also radio antenna was mounted. All the aluminum skin just floats with no adhesive needed.
As shown here the profile was given a 16 flat area to allow for the vent before the ribs were installed. Of course if no vent is used this is unnecessary.
On the body side of the piano hinge a 1/8 aluminum spacer (arrow) was installed to space the door out and make room for the door seal. J-moulding was used for a drip rail and also helps hold the aluminum skin tight.
On the inside hinge side of the door a hollow compression rubber was installed and seals the door water tight even when a high pressure hose is aimed around the outside mouldings. This seal was also used to seal the hatch. The INSTRUCTION plaque is just a Kit Industries copy printed on photo paper.
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Album last updated on Jul 28, 2008 - 12:43 PM
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